Glossary of fashion design terminology at Midwest
Fashion Expo
A-line gown - Form fitting bodices that flare
out from the waistline to a full skirt. These gowns have a seamless
waist.
A-line skirt/fit and flare skirt - A skirt that is
fitted at the waist and flares out in an A-line or tulip shape at the
hem.
back drape
- A length of material attached either at the shoulder or the waist
that flows over the back to floor length. In some cases it is removable.
back yoke
- A fitted or shaped piece at the top of a skirt or at the shoulder
of various garments.
ball gown
- Characterized by a very full skirt that begins at the waist and continues
to a formal length. The skirt waist is seamed and can be of various
styles.
ballerina neckline
- This is a low neckline that usually occurs with strapless or spaghetti
strapped dresses.
bandeau/tube
top - A band-shaped covering for the breasts.
Basque waist/V-waist
- This dropped waist starts at or just below the natural waistline,
and dips in the center creating a "V" shape.
bateau neck/boat
neck - A high, wide, straight neckline that runs straight across
the front and back, meeting at the shoulders; the same depth in the
front and back.
besom pockets
- A pocket sewn inside the garment with access through a welted slit-type
opening.
bias cut
- Cut diagonally across the grain of a fabric. Used to create garments
that follow the body curves closely.
bike tards
- A close-fitting, one-piece garment from the top of the torso to the
hem of the shorts.
blazer
- A long-sleeved sports jacket with lapels.
bolero jacket
- A loose, waist-length jacket open at the front.
boot-cut
- Cut below the belly button and slightly flares from the knee to the
ankle.
box-pleated
- Two folds of fabric brought together to form a pleat.
boy-leg
- Shorts, undergarments, or swimwear that has a close fitting leg that
reaches half way down the thigh.
broomstick
- A skirt or dress that is characterized by numerous pleats and crinkled
material.
camisole
- A short, sleeveless garment for women.
camp pockets
- Pockets that are sewn to the outside of the garment, usually squared
off and characterized by seaming.
cap sleeve
- A small, short sleeve which sits on the shoulder, either forming a
stiff cap or falling on to the arm to provide minimal coverage.
capri pants
- Fairly straight-cut pants, tapered to the mid-calf.
cardigan jacket
- A usually collarless sweater or jacket that opens the full length
of the center front.
cargo
- Characterized by sporting a large pocket usually with a flap and a
pleat.
carpenter pants/shorts
- Five-pocket pants characterized by a "hammer holder," a stretch of
material connecting the outside seam to the back pocket.
cathedral train
- (Also known as a monarch train); a cascading train extending six to
eight feet behind the gown, for the most formal weddings.
chapel train
- The most popular of all train lengths, it flows from three to four
feet behind the gown.
chemise/skimmer
- Simply a straight unbelted dress with varying sleeves and length.
column skirt/straight
skirt - Also referred to as a pencil skirt, this skirt is a
straight line with no flare or fullness at the hem or waistline.
concealed snap/velcro/button
placket - A slit in a garment where closures are hidden.
convertible
collar - A rolled collar that can be worn open or closed. Sewn
directly to the neckline.
corset top/boned
bodice - A form-fitting, usually strapless bodice with boning
and either laces or snap closures, styled in the fashion of the ladies
undergarment of the same name.
cowl neck
- A neckline featuring a piece of material attached to a garment at
the neck, which may be used as a hood or draped loosely in a swag from
shoulder to shoulder at the front neckline or back.
crew neck
- A round neck with ribbed banding that fits close to the base of the
neck.
crinoline
- Petticoats stiffened with horse-hair to enable the bell-like skirts
of the early nineteenth century, that was eventually replaced with the
bustle.
cropped top/jacket
- Hem is cut just above the waist.
diamond neck
- A diamond-shaped cutout that fastens at the front or back neckline.
dolman sleeve
- Cut as an extension of the bodice, the dolman sleeve is designed without
a socket for the shoulder, creating a deep, wide armhole that reaches
from the waist to a narrowed wrist. Also called a batwing sleeve.
double-breasted
- Having one-half of the front lapped over the other, and usually has
a double row of buttons and a single row of buttonholes.
double-tee
top - A layered look with one T-shirt over another.
draped bodice
- An extra piece of material is draped over the bustline.
dropped waist/low
waist - A waistline that is sewn below the body's natural waistline.
dropped shoulders
- Characterized by the shoulder/sleeve seam falling off the shoulder.
empire bodice-
A bodice that ends just below the bust, sometimes low-cut and gathered.
empire seams
- A seam that is sewn directly below the bustline.
empire waist
- This waistline begins just below the bust.
fishtail train
- Fitted around the hips and flares out from the knee to the hemline.
fitted point
sleeve - A long, narrow sleeve that tapers to a point which
rests against the back of the hand.
flat-front
pants - Straight pants, often seamless and pocketless.
form-fitting/slim-fit
- Straight from waist to ankle except for a slight curve around the
hip.
frog closure
- Chinese closing of decorative cording or braid. A soft ball of cording
or a button is used to complete the closure.
gauntlets
-Dress gloves extending above the wrist.
gaucho
- Wide-legged pants or divided skirt reaching mid-calf and worn with
boots.
halter top
- A sleeveless bodice with a high choke or wrap neck that may be backless.
hankerchief
style - The hem of a blouse or skirt that is gently jagged
to form flowing points.
hip pockets
- Pockets which are sewn on the front of the garment at hip height.
Hollywood waistband
- Characterized by a full elasticized back and a side zipper/button
closure.
hook & eye
closure - A 2-part fastening device (as on a garment or a door)
consisting of a metal hook that catches over a bar or into a loop.
illusion bodice
- A bodice made of sheer material giving the illusion of no bodice.
illusion sleeve
- A sleeve made of sheer material giving the illusion of no sleeve.
intermission
length/Hi-Lo - An intermission-length gown features a hem falling
between the knees and ankle; the Hi-Lo variation is a gown of intermission
length on the front and floor length or longer in the back.
jewel neck
- A high round neckline resting simply at the base of the neck.
kangaroo pocket
- A pocket formed by sewing a piece of cloth over the garment leaving
two open ends.
keyhole neck
- A tear shaped or round cutout that fastens at the front or back neckline.
kimono
- A long robe with wide sleeves traditionally worn with a broad sash.
leg-of-mutton
sleeve - (Also known as a gigot sleeve) a loose, full sleeve,
rounded from the shoulder to just below the elbow, then shaped to the
arm, often ending in a point at the wrist.
maillot
- A woman's one-piece bathing suit.
mandarin collar
- A short, stand-up collar, adopted from the close-fitting Asian collar.
mermaid
- This skirt hugs the body until it reaches the knees or just below
and then ends in a dramatic flare.
natural waist
- A seam or waistband that secures or falls at the natural curve of
the body, which is the indentation between the hips and the ribcage.
notched collar
- A two-piece collar that can be only worn open.
off-the-shoulder
neck - A neckline that lies gently hovering across the top
of the bustline with the shoulders uncovered or able to be seen through
the sheer yoke of net or organza attached to a high collar.
overskirt
- A skirt worn over another skirt.
peasant top
- Romantic style often characterized with a low neckline, ruffles, or
free flowing material.
peek-a-boo
- Any part of the garment which has been cut out to reveal skin.
petticoat
- An underskirt usually a little shorter than outer clothing and often
made with a ruffled, pleated, or lace edge.
pieced
- A look created by sewing several pieces of material together to form
the garment, much like a quilt.
pinafore
- Originally used to protect dresses from dirt, it was adopted as a
fashion piece and worn as a sleeveless dress or over a blouse.
placket
- The piece of cloth that reinforces a split or opening in a garment;
that usually also serves as the closure.
point collar
- A collar with ties used to attach women's sleeves to their gowns.
princess seams
- Seams that can be found in the front or the back of a garment that
create a form-fitting shape.
puckered bodice
- Usually associated with tube tops, it provides a scrunchy look.
puff sleeve/pouf
sleeve - A full sleeve of varying lengths, created by generous
gathering around the armhole.
push-up jeans
- Spandex in the jeans helps to lift and shape your rear.
romper
- A one-piece garment with the lower part shaped like bloomers.
sarong skirt
- Long cloth which is wrapped around the entire body.
scoop neck/round
neck - A low, U-shaped or round neckline.
shawl collar
- A one-piece collar which is turned down to form a continuous line
around the back of the neck to the front.
sheaths
- Usually have straight or close fitting skirts, accompanied by a form
fitting bodice. The skirt is often ankle length and sometimes has a
slit in either the front, side, or back to make walking easier.
shelf bra
- A bra that is built right into the garment.
shirred waist
- A decorative gathering (as of cloth) made by drawing up the material
along two or more parallel lines of stitching.
shrug
- A woman's small, waist-length or shorter jacket.
skant
- Pants that have a sweater-like attachment around the waist.
skort
- Shorts that have a front covering to resemble a skirt.
spaghetti strap
- A thin tubular strap that attaches to the bodice, named for its likeness
to a strand of spaghetti.
split neck
- A round neckline that looks like it has been cut in the center to
form a small "V".
square neck
- An open-yoke neckline shaped in the form of a half square.
straight legs
- Pant legs are cut an equal width from waist to ankle.
sweep train
- The shortest train, barely sweeping the floor.
sweetheart
neck - A graceful, open yoke, shaped like the top half of a
heart.
tank top
- A short, sleeveless top with wide armholes.
tankini
- A two piece bathing suit with the upper portion resembling a tank
top.
tapered legs
- Pant legs become progressively narrower toward the ankle.
tea length
- A gown hemmed to end at the shin.
tear-away shorts
- Features versatile side snaps that allow you to remove a top layer
fast.
tie-cinched
waist - The waist is pulled tight around the body with a tie.
trapeze top
- Tank top style with flared bottom.
tulle skirt/bouffant
gown - A sheer, puffed-out skirt often made of stiffened silk,
rayon, or nylon net.
tunic style
- A simple slip-on garment made with or without sleeves and usually
knee-length or longer, belted at the waist, and worn as an under or
outer garment.
turtle neck
- A high, close-fitting, turnover collar used especially for sweaters.
unitards
- A close-fitting, one-piece garment for the torso, legs, and feet,
and often for the arms.
V-neck/V-back
- An open yoke coming to a "V" shape midway down the bodice.
variegated
- Having streaks, marks, or patches of different colors; distinguished
or characterized by a variety of different colors.
wedding-band
collar - A collar featuring a yoke that is either open or of
sheer net with an ornate band fitting snugly on the neck, creating a
choker effect.
wide legs
- Pants or jeans that are cut extra full through the legs.
wing collar
- A collar with projections which cover shoulder seams of bodices and
doublets.
wrap
top/surplice top - A bodice created by the cross-wrapping of
fabric; may be in front or back, and associated with a high or low neckline.